Dometic RM2852 Refrigerator

TECHNICAL SUPPORT 9AM-9PM EASTERN 7 DAYS/WEEK

888-782-6665 Changing a Cooling Unit (Type 4) See our pages on cooling unit safety, electrical safety, and propane safety before attempting the following procedures. Pulling the Refrigerator. The first step in changing a cooling unit is to pull the refrigerator from its cabinet in the RV. Start by turning off the propane at the main bottle(s) and burning off any residual propane in the lines at a stove top burner. Next, from the outside access door for the refrigerator, disconnect the propane line to the refrigerator, unplug the 120 volt cord, and disconnect the 12 volt wiring to the refrigerator. Tape up the ends of the 12 volt wires with electrical tape to prevent sparking. While still at the back of the refrigerator locate two screws that are usually at the bottom outside edges of the refrigerator (the feet), securing it to the cabinet floor, and remove them. Next remove the refrigerator doors. Removing the doors is optional, but doing so makes the refrigerator lighter and easier to work with. After that, most models have four to six mounting screws on the inside edge of the refrigerator, usually covered with plastic plugs. There could also be screws at the top and the bottom of the refrigerator. See graphic below. These need to be removed. Look for any other fasteners that might prevent removal of the refrigerator. Next, inside the RV, underneath the refrigerator, there is usually a bead of silicone that needs to be cut with a razor knife. The refrigerator should then be free and slid into the RV. If it doesn't move, look around for something else holding the refrigerator in. Sometimes RV manufacturers create their own ways of securing the refrigerator. If possible, take the refrigerator out of the RV to a larger work area.

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Removing the Cooling Unit Remove the thermistor from the fins inside the refrigerator (it clips on) and also remove the screws from the fins. Next, slide the cover inside the freezer up to expose the screws behind it and remove them. See graphic above. Theoretically, this is supposed to be all there is to the inside work. The fins are taped to the inside liner of the box, and, when the cooling unit is pulled, the fins are supposed to remain inside the box, but this rarely works. Very often there are discrepancies in the foam of the cooling unit that cause the fins to stick to the cooling unit. The result is prying or driving the cooling unit out invariably cracks the liner of the box. It's best to plan on the fins coming out with the cooling unit. Take a hook type tool and gently pull the liner away from the fins inside the box. If you look closely, you'll see that the interior liner overlaps the fins. Stick your tool between the two and pull out gently. Work your way all the way around the fins. Once the work inside the refrigerator is done, lay the refrigerator on it's face. Depending on the circumstance, it may be necessary to lay a blanket down to protect the face of the refrigerator. The cooling unit is the set of coils on the back of the refrigerator, extending from the top to the bottom. This is what we're after. Obvious parts such as burner assemblies, heat elements etc. need to be removed from the unit. Many of the Type 4 models have a good portion of their control parts fastened to a piece of sheetmetal that can be removed as one unit. See graphic below. Take a close look at yours to see if this is the case. Some wires will need to be disconnected from the circuit board, and the burner mount screws will need to be removed. Pull the wire harnesses through the cooling unit to allow for its removal. On some models there is a two wire harness that is spliced in such a way that it needs to be cut. You don't want to cut wires unnecessarily, but this one you have to. When you're done with the installation, you can splice the two wires together. On the bottom of the refrigerator, there are two extruded pieces (the feet) that need to be removed for the control assembly to be slid out. Removing one screw on each foot

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